I wrote a new State of the Stomach about Mexico City for Culinary Backstreets. Instead of a straightforward review, this article looks at the larger trends shaping how the city eats. I touch on tlayudas, NAFTA, native corn and rising rents in this article.
“As Mexico City grapples with a changing urban landscape and the culinary world caters to the city’s new arrivals, the question now is whether everyday Mexicans will benefit from this resurgence of traditional Mexican cuisine and small-scale agriculture. Could native corn go the way of quinoa, which became unaffordable for many local consumers in Peru and Bolivia when it became trendy abroad?”
Read the article here. Photos by PJ Rountree.